Backfill with a mix of soil and sharp gravel, and keep tamping it down with something long and thin. When you reach the top of the hole, shovel a good amount of the mix around the base of the post, forming a mound that lets water run down. Gravel can be a great alternative to using concrete, and it does away with any drainage problems either underground or around the base.
However, the success of gravel as a post setting depends upon the soil. The process is very similar to setting a fence post in dirt. You need to dig that one-third deep hole with your clam digger, then put a layer of gravel at its base.
Every few inches, tamp down the gravel. Unlike concrete, you can carry on and install the chain or rails immediately, making it a quicker job. You can also get a nice effect by growing grass right up to the base of the posts. If you want to do this, stop two inches before the ground level, and switch to using soil. You can then grass over this. You can also use crushed rock when setting your fence posts. Like gravel, it allows for drainage around your fence post, cutting down on the risk of rapid rotting.
However, the crushed particles of rock also fuse together more readily than the larger gravel pieces. These interlocking particles form a strong foundation, closer to concrete but with drainage. To use crushed rock, follow the same process as you would for larger pieces of gravel.
Dig, place, fill, tamp; then fill, tamp repeat until you reach the ground level. What is a fence post anchor? A fence post anchor is not essential, but they certainly can help make your project that bit easier. It's been 4 days since I set the foundations and while the posts wobble when pulled hard, it appears that the wobble is because wood isn't absolutely solid, not because they aren't firmly in the foundation.
Is it safe to drill the holes, or should I wait longer? Could I have just drilled the holes after the first day? The 28 days mantra is a bit misleading. Concrete cure times vary widely depending on environmental factors and mix. That said, we don't know much about your pour. If you have 4" of concrete around the post, it's fairly fragile and drilling could crack it. If you have 8 or 12", it's much more robust and would probably tolerate drilling just fine, if you keep pressure light.
All this depends on adequate moisture having been provided and temperature maintained. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. How long should concrete set for a post before I perform additional work? Ask Question. Asked 2 years, 7 months ago. Active 2 years, 7 months ago. Under normal curing conditions, you can apply heavy weight to the post a basketball backboard, for example after just 4 hours.
The steps shown here can be used for all sorts of outdoor projects, like setting posts for mailboxes, lamps, and signs, plus flagpoles and uprights for sports and play equipment. For structural or load-bearing applications, such as concrete footings for deck posts, or for securing any post in sandy soil, follow the steps on pages 59 to 60, using concrete forms to build the footings or set the posts.
For loose or sandy soil, using a tube form is recommended left. Pour 6" of gravel or crushed stone into the bottom of the hole.
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