Some Pyrex ovenware is manufactured by a heat process that fortifies the glass for use in your oven. This process can be decorated with etchants. Another process to create ovenware is to bond a plastic coating to the outside of the glass object to also fortify the glass item.
This process will NOT allow the etchants to work as the etchants are not strong enough to break through the plastic coating. The only way to tell the difference between the two manufacturing process is to place a tiny dot of the etchant in a place on your overware where the dot, if it should etch, will not be an issue for you. Let the dot stay on for one minute, wash it off and dry the area completely before you determine whether or not you have a success.
Q: Is it safe to put as etched glass into the dishwasher or should it be hand washed? When a glass is Engraved scratching into the surface of the glass or deeply carved with a professional sand blaster, you will have to hand wash these items. When the surface of the glass is broken with an engraved line or sand blasting, the glass becomes weakened. The temperature of the dishwasher and the force of the water swirling against the weakened glass might cause the glass to break.
Q: Are the etched designs permanent and do I have to seal the glass after decorating? Nothing further is required. After you wash and dry your finished project your are done. Once you have finished your etched project, no changes can be made.
You can add to your design, but you will not be able to remove it. Q: Will the finished etched design be susceptible to food staining? A: Glass is a non porous surface. So when you place food on a glass plate there is no need to be concerned about staining the plate. When a glass plate is etched, the areas of the etched design are now porous and foods that contain color like spaghetti sauce will most likely stain the plate.
I always recommend that the bottom of plates be etched, especially when the plates are going to be used for food. If you are going to etch a plate for display only, then it does not matter which side you decorate.
Q: I made a mistake. How can I fix it? A: Etched designs are permanent. The only things you can do is get creative and add something to your design like a tiny butterfly strategically place to cover a booboo. If you have made a serious mistake or simply dis-like the design you choose, you will no other choice but to replace the glass. For small mistakes, try a small dot of clear nail polish to cover a small mistake.
The etching error will not go away, but the clear nail polish will cover the mistake and your eyes will not see the obscure etched area. Q: Does Armour Etch work on ceramic items or ceramic tiles? A: Armour Etch will take the glaze off of a ceramic item or ceramic tile. Q: Why did Armour Etch not work well on a solid etched area? A: We consider anything larger than 1"x1" too large for solid etching. Armour Etch is NOT made to etch solid large areas of glass. It is stated in all of our instructions and books.
It is impossible to evenly coat a piece of glass all at the same time. Therefore, wherever you apply the Armour Etch to first will start to etch immediately upon contact. The brush will leave brush strokes and the trail of where you etch first, then second, etc, will show up in the end results. I did this recently for a customer that had this suggested by his glass supplier.
We even did a colour fill after it was tempered. Right, I hear a lot of people doing this. Do you specialize in tempering the glass or did you take it somewhere? I apologize but I do not know English and use the google translator. I would like to ask you a question. Well I have a huge piece of class and inwantnto carve into it. Not too crazy deep but I need depth. Its huge, use to b a conference room table.
I want to carve it, ormshouldni look into the acid or cream. Dont want to lose this big opportunity. What gave you the idea to use the Perfect Glass cleaner? Might have to get some of that. I happen to have PerfectGlass in the studio my unauthorized GF lid cleaner it is as clean a cleaner you can buy with no additives.
Well, i just ordered some. Revised settings I now find LPI to be superior -. Have you tested this extensively? You can order pre-cut vinyl from quite a few places, and if you would prefer to make your own, a craft knife can be just as good. The plotter just saves a lot of time for me. Once you have cut what you need out, you need to put it on some transfer paper.
Ideally, I should have put the logo in the centre of the A4 sheet so that there was more vinyl around the logo to ensure that there was more room for the paste to spread without being worried it was going to go onto the glass.
We live and learn, though! The glass I was using has been sat in my shed for a good 12 months. It is dusty, has speckles of paint on it, and is generally rather nasty.
As always, prep is really important, so the first job with the glass is cleaning it up. I just used warm water and washing up liquid. It cleaned up a charm. Then, once the glass had dried I lined up the logo so that it was straight and stuck the vinyl down. I figured it would be really important that the vinyl stuck properly, as the cream will work its way into any little gap there is.
I used a little vinyl tool that came with my plotter to rub it all over oooh-er. I was really concerned about making sure that it was even across the whole stencil, though; I wanted a nice even etch with no patches.
The cream can be reused, so there really is no point in being frugal with it.
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